Water Testing - Fourth Key to Good Pool Care

!±8± Water Testing - Fourth Key to Good Pool Care

Key 4 - Water Testing

Test your pool water at least 2 times per week & bring a 1 quart water sample for a complete computerized test & analysis 3 times per season to your local pool professional for best results. Testing keeps you up to date on what's going on with your pool water.

Don't rely solely on how the water looks. In fact most of the SERIOUS water problems that we see (skin rashes, colored hair, pool surface etching, etc.) occur when the water is "crystal clear" about the middle part of the swimming season. Make pH, total alkalinity & calcium hardness adjustments promptly. You'll protect the filter system, the pool surfaces, get better chlorine & sanitizer efficiency and virtually eliminate red eyes & dry skin.

Here's what Pool testing involves:

* Testing & maintaining the sanitizer level - chlorine, bromine, salt level, biguanide (Soft Swim or Baquacil)

* Testing & maintaining the pH

* Other important water balance levels

Testing & maintaining the sanitizer level - No matter what basic chemistry or pool care sanitizing system you're using, chlorine, bromine, salt / chlorine, biguanides (such as BioGuard Soft Swim or Arch Chemical Baquacil), or other alternatives such as Pristine Blue, you have to keep an eye on that level. Too low - bacteria & algae can get out of control & cause real problems. Too high - that's just being wasteful; it's unnecessary to maintain high sanitizers levels in most swimming pool applications. But sometimes you do want that sanitizer level a bit higher, like just before a big pool party or if your area is expecting a lot of rain. That temporarily high sanitizer level will protect the pool water from getting "out of whack". How many times have you been to or been the host of pool party and you can actually watch the water become hazy as the party goes on (then realize that hardly anyone has used the bathroom all day! Yikes!). Starting a pool party with a higher sanitizer level could have prevented that.

But, you also have to know what sanitizer level you're testing. Especially in the case of chlorine, which chlorine are you testing? Free Available Chlorine (FAC) or Total Chlorine? What's the difference? FAC is the chlorine level that is actually active & working killing bacteria & algae. Total Chlorine is exactly that - the total amount of chlorine present in the pool, FAC plus combined chlorines. And you don't want combined chlorines. Combined chlorine is chlorine plus waste; usually in the form of nitrogen (chloramines). It smells & causes red eyes. When you have a strong chlorine odor, the cause is typically a very poor level of FAC and a High level of chloramines. The only way to get rid of them is shock the pool. Click on this link for more information on chloramines & other chlorine issues. Here's quick chart as to proper sanitizer levels:

Chlorine 1.0 - 2.0 ppm

Bromine 2.5 - 4.5 ppm

Biguanide 30 - 50 ppm

PristineBlue® 0.5 - 1.0 ppm

How often should you test the sanitizer level? Ideally, every day. Realistically, 2 times per week is great. You may want to keep a log in case you ever need to treat a problem. When you call us or your local pool professional, we'll be able to help you diagnose that problem.

Testing & maintaining the pH - Here's the question that we're regularly asked: "Why do I have to test the pH? The water looks great and besides, the chlorine level is more important to watch." Where's that buzzer? Wrong! Testing & maintaining pH is almost more important than testing for sanitizer. Why?

With an improper pH level, nothing works the way it should! All pool sanitizers work best in a very narrow range of 7.2 to 7.8. If the pH is low (less than 7.2), you may have really clear water but, you'll burn through chlorine like crazy, your blonde hair will turn green, corrosion of pool surfaces & equipment will take place. We've even seen skin abrasions due to low pH ("but the water is SO clear!")

Water with a high pH, sanitizers become sluggish & work slowly. The results: hazy or cloudy water, scaling of pool surfaces & equipment begins to occur. Physically, you'll also notice red eyes, itchy skin, dry hair.

Remember that the pH scale is a logarithmic scale. In other words if the pH is 7.5 (basically perfect for pool use), a pH of 6.5 is 10 times more acid (corrosive) and a pH of 5.5 is 100 times as acidic! Conversely, if the pH is 8.5, the water is 10 times more alkaline (prone to scale formation). When the pH is off, it's OFF.

When you notice the pH going off, either low or high, don't ignore it. Correct it as soon as possible. Use pH increaser such as BioGuard® Balance Pak 200® when the pH is low. Use about 1 lb. per 10,000 gallons. Retest the following day. Use pH decreaser such as BioGuard® Lo 'n Slo® to lower the pH when it gets high. Use about 1 lb. per 10,000 gallons. Retest the following day. Always make incremental adjustments to prevent see-sawing.

Other important water balance levels - Water testing shouldn't end with sanitizer & pH. There are other components that need to be watched for optimal sanitizer effectiveness, protection of pool surfaces & equipment, and swimmer's comfort & health. These other water chemistry indicators are Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer), Metals, TDS & Chlorine Demand.

Briefly, the Total Alkalinity (TA) is a buffer for the pH - good range 80 - 150 ppm, depending on pool surface type & type of sanitizer used. If the TA is low, the pH will "bounce" around & you will have difficulty maintaining it for more than a couple of days. If the TA is high, the pH will tend to be high which will contribute to scale build-up. Calcium Hardness (CH) is the measure of how much calcium & other carbonates are in the water. Low CH will lead to aggressive water (similar to low pH) as the water wants to balance itself & therefore eats away at any & all pool surfaces. High CH will be shown as cloudy water, with the water becoming cloudier as the water warms - especially above 85 F. Rapid scaling will also occur damaging filters & heaters. High calcium is generally caused by using calcium based chlorines or from very hard source water. TA & CH should be tested 4 - 6 times per season. Once adjusted, they do not fluctuate wildly except in the case of heavy rains or copious amounts of make up water.

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) - chlorine stabilizer - should be tested about 3 - 4 days after pool start up. If you are using a slow dissolving chlorine stick or tablet, odd are that you WILL NOT need to add stabilizer every year. DO NOT TEST FOR STABILIZER UNTIL THE FILTER HAS RUN FOR A MINIMUM OF 3 DAYS FOR ACCURATE RESULTS. Do not randomly add stabilizer every year or pool season without first testing, you'll be wasting your money. Maintain a level of about 40 - 100 ppm. Myth - there is no such thing as "chlorine lock" caused by higher levels of CYA. This is more of a Chlorine Demand problem. If you are using Bromine, do not test or worry about CYA, bromine cannot be stabilized. Ever.

Metals, TDS (total dissolved solids) & chlorine demand should be tested from time. Tests should be performed by a qualified pool water professional. If you suspect or are having staining problems, problems maintaining a sanitizer level, incurable cloudy water or algae, please bring in a one quart water sample for a free complete computerized water analysis.

Remember to follow the other 5 Keys to Pool Care. They're just as important.

Water Testing - Fourth Key to Good Pool Care

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Celebrating 60 Years in the Pool & Spa Business!

!±8± Celebrating 60 Years in the Pool & Spa Business!

www.bonsallpool.com (402-488-0148) Bonsall Pool & Spa is celebrating 60 years in Business and we're passing the savings onto our customers! Going on now, we have special deals on Above-Ground pools and pool chemicals. Bonsall Pool and Spa is the only Bioguard dealer in Lincoln, NE. BioGuard...

Celebrating 60 Years in the Pool & Spa Business!

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Hot Tub Cover Lifters Can Save You A Fortune

!±8± Hot Tub Cover Lifters Can Save You A Fortune

Whether you are a new hot tub owner or a long time spa user it won't take long to see the benefits of a proper hot tub cover lifter. Proper selection of a hot tub cover lifter can literally save you a fortune in the long run. It is simply a matter of doing your homework.

Often times when purchasing a hot tub we are inundated with all the costs and expenses of owning one. Besides the initial purchase of the spa itself, there is the electrical hook up and service charge of an electrician, there is the start-up and maintenance chemicals and of course the added electricity expenses of heating and running the spa.

So investing an additional 0-0 can be a "wait till later" expense. Many ask - why bother with a cover lifter? For one thing removing a spa cover is not an easy task, especially if the spa is rather large. Some tubs can measure 6 to 10 feet across so the cover can be heavy and awkward to handle. A cover lifter makes it easier to open and close the tub even when someone is alone. So besides assisting with leverage to raise and lower the spa cover, most lifters will also hold the cover in place in the open position. This takes the stress off the seams and prevents the cover from resting on the ground where they can get damaged from small rocks and debris.

Remember these spa covers are made from foam and are sealed by a plastic vapour wrap to prevent them from becoming water logged, but the slightest puncture or tear in the wrap will drastically shorten the life of your spa cover which can range from 0-0 to replace. Generally spa covers last 3 to 5 years and possibly longer. But covers that are removed without cover lifters tend to tear at the seams prematurely, are dropped more often and get pierced from being laid down on the rough ground. This means they get water logged and lose all insulation value. Which means you could potentially be doubling or even tripling your operating costs and in new covers for your spa.

Which cover lifter to use? Well that depends on whether you have space limitations beside or behind the tub when the cover will rest in its open position. Most cover lifters require a minimum of 24 inches to allow for arc and space to rest the thickness of the cover. There are some styles that are made for low clearance areas but do tend to cost more and may hold the cover rather high as opposed to most that cradle the cover lower.

Styles also vary by installation. Some cover lifters will screw into the side paneling of the tub but often spa owners dislike drilling holes in the cabinets and in the event of high winds and covers that get too heavy over time, can actually damage the paneling. Others allow for "under mounting" where two metal plates are slipped under the tub (when empty) and hold the arms so there is no need to drill into your tub. These tend to be more solid and hold more weight. Alternatives also include deck mounting where the arms are fixed to the deck (provided your tubs sits on a deck).

Now some spa users are looking for privacy and so lifters that hold the cover vertically are perfect. While others already have the privacy in their area setup and prefer not to have the cover looming up high while their in the tub enjoying a soak. This is where cover sliders come in handy, they slide the cover off to the side laying flat, although they do require a great deal more room to open. Lastly if budget is of no concern and you're not looking to star gaze - there are hydraulic cover raisers that act as a cover and then raise on hydraulic posts and transforms into a small roof overhead looking like a gazebo.

Any tub owners we know that start with a cover lifter are extremely pleased with the ease of use and ultimately the cost savings and never want to look back. After all having a hot tub is about enjoyment, relaxation and feeling good so make your life easier and invest in a cover lifter of your own.

Hot Tub Cover Lifters Can Save You A Fortune

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In The Swim 3 Inch Pool Chlorine Tablets 25 lbs.

!±8± In The Swim 3 Inch Pool Chlorine Tablets 25 lbs.

Brand : In The Swim | Rate : | Price : $69.99
Post Date : Sep 25, 2011 15:51:51 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

COMPARE TO BIOGUARD, SUN, GUARDEX and PACE.

Chlorine tablets are one of the key chemicals to maintaining your pool water, and 3 inch chlorine tablets are the most popular among long-time pool owners. They are thicker than other pool chlorine tablets, allowing them to dissolve slower and protect your pool water for longer. They are also the ideal size for floaters, skimmers, or automatic feeders and are individually wrapped for your convenience. Tablets contain powerful 90% available stabilized chlorine, 99% Trichlor-S-Triazinetrione. Dosage: approximately 1-2 tabs per 10,000 gallons of water per week.

• NOTE: This item cannot be shipped to Alaska or Hawaii. If your shipping address is in Alaska or Hawaii, this item will be removed from your order.
• 3 in. Chlorine Tabs weigh 7 oz. each and are slow-dissolving.
• Powerful 90% available stabilized chlorine.
• 99% Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione.
• Tablets are individually wrapped. Approximately 57 tabs per bucket.

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In The Swim Pool Chlorine Sticks 25 lbs.

!±8± In The Swim Pool Chlorine Sticks 25 lbs.

Rate : | Price : $99.99 | Post Date : Sep 21, 2011 22:31:23
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

COMPARE TO BIOGUARD, STINGY STICKS, SUN, GUARDEX AND PACE. Extra-large 8 oz. Chlorine Sticks measure 4-1/4 in. long x 1-1/2 in. diameter and are extra slow dissolving. Chlorine sticks work great in floaters, skimmers and automatic feeders. Dosage: approximately 1-2 sticks per 10,000 gallons of water each week. Powerful 89% available stabilized chlorine, 99% Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione.

• In The Swim Chlorine Pool Shock 24 X 1 lb. bags

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The demand for chlorine in the pool

!±8± The demand for chlorine in the pool

The demand for chlorine is a problem of pool water chemistry that is more and more attention because of the changing climate, water chemistry and consumer understanding of the problem. There is also a serious problem in many public and private pools.

Chlorine demand is defined as "the amount of chlorine is reduced or converted to inert or less active forms of chlorine by substances in the water." Faust and Aly chemical water treatment is to say, "because chlorine is aNon-selective oxidant, almost all substances, water ... resolved to react and consume chlorine "In other words, the more" stuff "in the pool, its organic or inorganic, chemical .., vegetable or mineral, heavy, constant rain can cause a chlorine demand, or simply not in the able to successfully maintain a chlorine residual after treatment chock. Some household cleaners, which adds specially formulated for in-pool-water-use components such asPhosphates and nitrates is with the pool chlorine disinfectant causes a troubling question.

It could be another cause for the suspect, at least in the way we think about the chloramines. As you recall, Chloramines are chlorine molecules that are chemically up (we call them dirty) with organic waste such as ammonia which are connected, etc. More and more local authorities for water disinfection treatment with chloramines in the water supply drinking in those days. Chloramines arevery effective in killing pathogens in drinking water. However, chloramines are not effective oxidizing agents. You probably have a regular pink in the sink at home, shower and toilet noticed, especially in the last 4-5 years. These spots need more frequent cleaning. This is the same pink slime that is in your pool! Chloramines are used because they are very effective and less "offensive" to those who want to rid the planet of chlorine. This premise is absolute nonsensebecause you can not ban or get rid of an object! No matter how you did your pool with a garden hose, you are more chloramines in your pool at any time and aggravating already serious problem. Please note that this problem is not appropriate for people with well water (you have your problems).

A sure sign that the choice of a chlorine demand is the inability to provide a level of free chlorine of about 1.0 to 3.0 ppm available more than a couple of hours to keep, even aftershock or super chlorination.

Since 1992, one of the first pool area Technical Services Department has a huge amount of data collected at the request of chlorine. It seems that the situation is more common every year. Here are some actions (short version), that in dealing with chlorine-demand can help.

Make a real test of demand for chlorine. Your local pool should have a chlorine demand test station. In determining the real demand for chlorine, isimperative that the solution, and corrective action will be more accurate. Compare it to jump over the Grand Canyon, if you miss, you miss! If it takes 20 pounds of shock, to break the demand for chlorine, with £ 19 the problem will worsen, 20 pounds or more shock is to treat the topic. Maintenance of a disinfectant to the pool each day. Make sure that the correct number of tablets or chlorine sticks dissolve in the pool have. Check how many times a dayseen by visual examination of the eroding chlorine (both in the skimmer or in a chlorine plant) with a "normal". Normal refers to what you have 'normal' experienced in the past. Cold, slow erosion / dissolution rate; warmer water, faster erosion / dissolution rate. The pool should be shocked every week. PERIOD. Shocking oxidizes most of the "stuff" that was mentioned earlier. If you use a solar blanket, remove it! After each chemical, chemistryMust have time to answer, GAS-OFF, in order to get the right results. Maintaining the right balance of water. pH 7.2-7.6, total alkalinity 100 to 150 ppm, Calcium hardness 200-300 ppm. Good water balance promotes good, effective chlorine (disinfectant) performance.

Although a single cause for the demand for chlorine has not been determined (there are many), we found a common thread in many of these cases. A common thread, if a pool is always closed during the spring (not coveredDisinfectant). The heavy rains that ammonia is present leads to a demand for chlorine. Not covered by the house or compound fertilizers, which can be oxidized by chlorine, will result in a chlorine demand.

Finally, we have high demand our attention chlorine. Only careful monitoring and prompt treatment can be successful for a clear swimming pool. Visit your local pool REGULARLY (4 times per season). If you do not have a chlorine demand test, find someone who does.

The demand for chlorine in the pool

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